Search with a metal detector

What is a metal detector and how does it work

To work with a metal detector as efficiently as possible, it is important to understand how it can and how it works. Let's start with the basics: a metal detector is an electronic device, which includes a control unit, a rod and one or more coils. Relatively speaking, the block is the "brains" of the metal detector, and the coil is its "eyes". It is the coil that allows you to look into the thickness of the earth and detect metals, and the block signals us about this find and helps us decide whether to dig or not.

Inside the unit there is an electronic board powered by batteries or a battery (sometimes from a crown), as well as a speaker, various connectors, sensors, etc. Often, all modern metal detectors have a display, and some models also have a backlight — a very useful equipment for a night cop. A rod is attached to the block, on which the wire from the coil is wound. It is better to see how this is done in the instructions for the metal detector.

The coil itself can be of different shapes, sizes and types. It is known that oval-shaped models with a diameter of 9-12" are considered the most convenient to use and are great for both beginners and experienced diggers. Therefore, such coils often come as standard with a metal detector. The depth and speed of the search depends on the size of the coil. Small coils (5-9”) can see small objects better, but are not able to look deep underground. Large coils (13-20”) see deeply, but they do not cope well with indicating the exact location of the object and especially a small one, in connection with which they have to dig a bigger hole.

The principle of operation of a metal detector depends on its type and design. We are primarily interested in classic or, as they say, conventional metal detectors, which will be discussed below. The most common among classical metal detectors are induction models and devices that work according to the type of signal reception and transmission.

• The first are called ground and are most often used to search for jewelry, coins, etc. Usually, such a device has a metal discriminator and is capable of detecting small objects at a depth of up to 1 metre (on average, this indicator ranges from 15-25 cm). The principle of operation is based on a very low analogue frequency of the coil: VLF or its improved version of VFLEX. The only difference is that VFLEX works on the principle of digital data transmission, which provides a slightly higher response rate, otherwise everything is identical.

• The second type includes deep metal detectors that detect metal due to coils distant from each other or using a large frame with a built-in coil. The work of such is usually based on RF technology. Unfortunately, it lacks a metal discriminator, and therefore does not distinguish between black and non-ferrous metals. Deep metal detectors are designed to search for large metal objects at depths up to 3-6 metres. But in this regard, the device is almost "blind" to small things, which means that you are unlikely to find coins and other objects smaller than a teaspoon. The electronic circuit of a deep metal detector is usually simpler than that of a ground detector, but it is more demanding on the quality of power supply and requires fine tuning. Such a device is not recommended for beginners.

How to choose a metal detector

To choose the right metal detector, in addition to the low-cost, it is important to decide what and where you plan to dig.

If you are focused on finding coins, treasures and non-ferrous metal, then you definitely need a good metal discriminator. But if you are interested in WWII finds, then the presence of a discriminator is no longer so important. It's easier to decide on a place for a cop, it's either a beach, or the ground, or an underwater search. And for some, all at once. But if the first and the second can be easily combined, then the third is more difficult.

Any metal detector with a metal discriminator function is suitable for the beach. In order to have more finds, in addition to the standard coil, it is also worth buying a small, so-called sniper. Pin-Point mode works better with it. The discriminator will help you avoid beer lids, aluminium ears from cans, foil from cigarette packs and other junk, which is full on the beaches.

One of the best "beachgoers" today is considered to be Garrett ACE 250 Price from 12 320 up to 15 879 ₴. This model has a software discriminator, but the price, reliability and ease of use fully compensate for this disadvantage. What is wrong with the metal discriminator software? The fact that he often makes mistakes is undesirable hardware. In addition, a sealed, moisture-proof coil is standard, which can be lowered under water without fear. By the way, there is a section with coils at this link.

If your choice is soil, then you need a ground metal detector. Especially in this regard, models with the function of soil detuning will be useful.

On soils, fields and forests, you will have to "wave" the coil more than on the beach. Consequently, the larger it is, the larger the area it covers, which in turn saves the digger time and effort. For these purposes, a coil of size from 15” will serve as a good choice.

The perfect ground metal detector for a novice treasure hunter can be called Minelab X-Terra 705 . First of all, the model differs in three frequencies, with which both the metal detector itself and the coil can work. And the second is the reliability proven by time and thousands of users around the world. The presence of three frequencies suggests that you will be able to better search for both small items and larger ones. The higher the frequency, the better the device sees small metal objects, and the lower it is, the deeper it scans.

But underwater treasure hunting is already considered quite an extreme kind of hobby, so in addition to an underwater metal detector you will also need the appropriate equipment, as well as a little courage and bravery. Apart from water protection, such models do not differ much from the types described above.

Metal Detector Search: where to start

So, if you have decided on a model or even already bought a device, ask: what's next? And then you need to study the instructions. No matter how trite it may be, but that's where you'll find the most important information about the device. Also, before entering the "field", we recommend listening to how the metal detector sounds for different metals and objects. To do this, take several metal objects, for example, a nail, several coins of different alloys, a ring (it is possible from different metals), a gold jewelry and a beer stopper; dig one small pit (5-10 cm) and throw all these objects into it in turn. But keep in mind, an object underground sounds worse than in an open pit. This simple exercise will teach you to hear how this or that object sounds and will not let you pass by a useful find at first.

We also advise you to take an additional battery (batteries or accumulator), a cellophane raincoat and a map of the area with you on the first cop. It is better to study the map before arriving at the cop's place. You should also find out all the detailed information about old roads, mills or buildings that could disappear on already modern maps. By comparing the data, you can easily find a "bread place".

If you decide to go through the antiquities, coins, jewelry or other non—ferrous metal products, and the finds of the Second World War do not interest you, you should configure the metal discriminator so that it cuts off the entire spectrum of ferrous metal. Usually these are the first 2-3 strips of the discriminator, but it is better to look in more detail in the instructions from the metal detector.

It is worth noting that the search for coins with a metal detector is not an easy matter, requiring a certain skill. At a minimum, the coin does not always lie, it can stand sideways, is under or above other metal objects or, for example, rusty nails. In this case, the metal detector may start to get lost and give out a colour signal, then a black one. This is better to dig.

The same situation can happen again with small jewelry. If your metal detector is able to show the digital value of metal (for some brands, for example Garrett, this is called VDI), then small objects made of gold can be shown with a value of 32-44. A beginner who is not interested in black metal can pass by. An amateur who has already managed to dig up some unnecessary junk may also not take this signal into account. After all, the cartridge from the PPSH, and some Soviet plugs are just in this range. Therefore, if the metal detector has such a function as the numerical value of the metal and you do not want to miss any valuable find, and even more so coins, we recommend that you study the number for each of them or at least for the most popular coins found in your region. For example, 5 kopecks of the USSR in 1961 has the number 54, and 2 kopecks in 1814 is already 85. All this can be found on the Internet.

A manual pinpoint is not superfluous for a digger. With it, you can easily find a small metal object in an already dug hole or any other place. To do this, you do not have to stir up the entire bundle of earth or rub every handful of dirt, it is enough to bring the pinpoint closer to the place of the alleged find and it will point to it up to a few millimetres. The most reliable and most convenient pinpoint on the market is considered to be Garrett THD Price from 9 999 up to 13 049 ₴. But if the low-cost is limited, a great option may be Garrett Pro-Pointer .

And so, you are on the field and ready to start looking for treasures. Where to start? We recommend dividing the search area into sectors. Do not walk around the search area thoughtlessly. Also, at first it is better to dig everything, whether it is black or coloured "sound". At a minimum, you will learn to hear metal, as a maximum, you will find something among the chernyak (slang, translated as "among the black metal").

After hearing the signal about the find, do not rush to dig immediately, run the coil around the place from all sides, determine the perimeter where the find is located and add 15-20% of the total area there. This will protect the find from damage with a shovel. If you didn't find anything, don't despair, it could have been a phantom signal, or the find lies deeper, so try lowering the coil into the pit.

An important point is the technique of swinging the coil. It is necessary not just to go with an elongated metal detector, you need to diligently move it from side to side, otherwise the coil will not react to the metal. The distance between the coil and the ground is also important. Optimal will be 1-2 cm. In order not to damage the sole of the coil, and not to expose the winding, do not hit the coil on branches or stones, avoid sharp swings near hard objects. And it's even better to buy protection on the coil itself. But keep in mind, it must be periodically removed and washed, because dirt can accumulate inside, including iron shavings, which will create interference and phantom signals.

Nuances and dangers in the search with a metal detector

As in any business, this area has its own nuances and dangerous features. Therefore, in addition to the pleasure and passion for the search, you should also be concerned about your own safety. As they say, the echo of the war has not died down yet, which means that shells and other detonating objects are still lying in the ground. Most of them no longer pose any danger, but there are also those that can harm you or your device. Before you start digging, we strongly recommend that you carefully and unhurriedly familiarize yourself with the appearance of all dangerous objects since the Second World War. It can be both grenades and fuses from them — there are quite a lot of dangerous or undesirable objects.

We also recommend that you study all historical and state objects that are protected by law and prohibited for excavation. And keep in mind that digging in the forest, in the field or even on the beach, you are not at home, but in nature. You may encounter wild animals, including wild boar, wolf or bear. Such a meeting is certainly rare, but the fact that it is real is a fact, and this should be taken into account.

PS: Searching with a metal detector is an exciting business, and very responsible, which means you need to respect both yourself and your hobby, and the world around you. The professional handwriting of each digger is considered to be the reverse burying of the holes dug with his own hands. Remember, leaving the pits unburied is not only ugly, but also dangerous, because a person who accidentally enters them can twist, or even break a leg.

Have a successful, safe and interesting cop and more good finds!