Claws for your tyre. The world of studded tyres
The cause of the slip and the fight against it
The cause of slipping when driving on ice or very hard packed snow is a thin film of water that forms in the contact patch with the road. It is formed as a result of friction and pressure due to which snow and ice melt. As a result, movement on such a surface becomes dangerous even with simple walking, what can we say about cars.
Today, there are many technologies designed to combat this film. For example, manufacturers cover the surface of tyres with a large number of sipes (thin cuts of complex shapes). Such a surface deforms during movement, forming many edges that “break” the water film and literally cling to the surface. In addition, the lamellas also play the role of a kind of suction cups. Tyres of this type are often called "Hook-and-loop" or "European type".
Also, a typical winter tyre has a directional tread pattern with a large number of drainage grooves that widen from the center to the edge and are designed to drain water. It is important that the tread at the same time be self-cleaning, clods of snow do not stick to it.
And another means of combating water film is the special composition of the rubber compound used for the outer tread layer. It is porous, as a result, the tyre acts like a sponge, temporarily absorbing moisture and literally “sticking” to the surface.
Tyres that use these approaches are usually classified as non- studded and labeled "studless". They are great for city driving in slushy winters.
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| The cause of slipping when driving on ice or very hard packed snow is a thin film of water that forms in the contact patch with the road. |
Tyres with claws
When the car is used in really very difficult conditions, anti-skid spikes are much more effective, which work like claws, digging into the surface. They will also be very useful in cases where public utilities are simply not able to provide proper cleaning of the streets.
At zero or sub-zero temperatures, studded tyres provide almost a twofold advantage compared to Hook-and-loop. On an icy road, it is better to use an inexpensive spike than the most sophisticated Hook-and-loop.
Studded tyres have a different pattern and are usually (but not always) characterized by increased hardness of the rubber compound. Their tread has zones up to 2 square meters. cm, devoid of any slots - it is in them that the spike is planted.
Spikes began to be used even before the era of the automotive industry, then ordinary nails were used, driven into the wooden wheels of the carriages. After the advent of pneumatic tyres, they were temporarily abandoned, there were difficulties with fastening, which took quite a long time to resolve. Spikes became commonplace on wheels only in the middle of the last century. Initially, they were distinguished by a very simple design, even primitiveness. But with the development of technology, they became more and more "fancy". Modern spikes are not just a piece of metal sticking out of the surface of the wheel. They have a rather complex shape, and a complex fastening system. In addition, many well-known manufacturers have their own developments and technologies. The most durable studs have bodies made of steel, although there are also models with bodies made of alloyed aluminium and even special hard plastics (to reduce the weight of the structure).
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| At zero or sub-zero temperatures, studded tyres provide almost a twofold advantage compared to Hook-and-loop. |
Thanks to the spikes, the braking distance is significantly reduced, and the behavior of the car on ice and snow becomes more predictable. Studs are a great solution when driving on icy surfaces at very low temperatures. Moreover, studded tyres deform the icy surface and make it slightly safer for studless tyres. However, all this does not mean at all that using studded tyres, it will be possible to arrange races.
Studded tyres are actively used in countries with very harsh climates and long winters. No wonder they are referred to as so-called. "Scandinavian type" - it is in the Scandinavian countries, famous for very harsh winters, that they are most actively used. These tyres are well suited for driving both on highways and in urban conditions.
However, one should not think that studded tyres are without flaws. The fact is that this solution is specifically for driving on ice or rolled snow. They are not very suitable for dry and wet asphalt - the braking distance increases noticeably, and the spikes cause damage to the road surface. These damages can hardly be called significant, but as a result, asphalt dust is formed, which is considered a carcinogen. There is also a noticeable increase in the noise produced during movement, which is generally characteristic of winter tyres. You can also come across the claim that the use of spikes increases the fuel consumption of the car, but if this happens, then the increase is insignificant. In some European countries, where winters are relatively mild, studded tyres are generally prohibited.
Spike rules
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| It makes sense to purchase “studs” if you often have to drive on icy or snowy surfaces. |
As you can see from the previous section, it makes sense to purchase “studs” if you often have to drive on icy or snowy surfaces. This applies not only to residents of northern countries. So, studded tyres will be useful for those who often travel outside the cities with their cleaned (usually) streets. For example, avid gardeners. For those who live in relatively warm winters and spend most of their time in the city, ordinary Hook-and-loop will be enough. However, experts say that for novice drivers, the use of spikes is preferable in any case.
However, spikes will only be effective if certain rules are followed. So, some car owners install studded tyres only on the drive wheels. Which can be very dangerous in some situations. But in general, there is an unspoken rule - the best pair of tyres should be put on the rear axle, regardless of the type of drive. So if for some reason you decide to use only two studded tyres (which we still do not recommend), then consider at least this nuance.
Often, drivers forget about such a thing as running in - after installing new tyres with spikes, you need to drive at least 200 kilometers (and preferably 400 kilometers) at speeds up to 70 km / h, avoiding sudden acceleration and braking. After this procedure, the spikes will “grind” to their places, they will hold on more firmly.
When using spikes, it is necessary to monitor the pressure in the tyres, they should not be lowered. Otherwise, there is a risk of rapid tread wear and studs falling out. Moreover, the pressure in studded tyres is recommended to be maintained at 0.2 atmospheres more than in conventional ones. But remember also that at low temperatures the pressure gauge may be wrong and show slightly lower readings than it really is. Also, you should not develop speeds above 140 km / h for a long time. Otherwise, there is also a risk of the spikes falling out, but not due to centrifugal force, but due to their very strong heating. Also slow down when driving over rails or manholes.
If you follow all these rules, you can expect the spikes to last you at least two to three seasons. But after a tyre has lost 25-30% of its studs, it must be replaced because it is no longer effective. But even if most of the spikes are still in place, but at the same time they stagger, this means that you will soon need to buy new winter tyres.
Used tyres that have lost their studs are sometimes used to “finish off” in the summer. Doing this is strongly discouraged. If only because the braking distance increases by a good 20-30%. But if there is no other way out, then at least first remove all the spikes remaining there from the tread.
And do not forget to equip your car with the appropriate badge if it has studded tyres. Although, you should not rely on it too much - a competent driver will keep his distance in any case, and a beginner may simply not notice anything.
Stud or buy ready-made?
In general, most experienced drivers recommend purchasing tyres already studded by the tyre manufacturer. The fact is that only in this case you can be sure that the procedure was carried out correctly, that the correct equipment was used. In addition, usually the development of studs is carried out during the design of tyres, that is, they complement each other perfectly. But the vast majority of tyres are initially studless. In addition, sometimes there is nothing but marketing behind the loud and sonorous names used by studded rubber manufacturers.
Not all rubber can be studded. A tyre with this feature is labeled "Studdable". The manufacturer also indicates the optimal size of the spike. Installation is carried out either in specially designed or pre-drilled holes for this purpose. For passenger cars, spikes are usually used with a length of about 10-13 mm and a diameter of 8 mm.
The studding procedure must be done before the start of the winter season. A tyre that has gone through this procedure cannot be immediately put on the wheel, it must lie down for some time (preferably at least two months), in order for the rubber to adapt to the “foreign body”, residual deformation disappears. By the way, one of the advantages of tyres with factory studding lies precisely in the fact that they have “rested up” in any case. And, of course, it just doesn't make sense to stud used tyres.
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| Most experienced drivers recommend purchasing tyres already studded by the tyre manufacturer. |
There are two main types of spikes: single-flange (or simply "nail") and double-flange (sometimes called "glass" because of the shape). Of course, when creating studded tyres, manufacturers sometimes create solutions that are more complex in shape. But studding in the field (at dealers or in the first oncoming service stations) is made by these two types.
Single-flanged are more affordable and, as a result, are more commonly used. However, double flanged ones are somewhat more efficient due to less slope in the socket. In addition, due to the larger size of the upper flange, all kinds of dirt does not penetrate inside and does not corrode the lower part of the spike. However, if you drive a car carefully and calmly, then any of the types is perfect for you.
The quality of landing is influenced by a large number of factors. Such as the hardness of the tread and the massiveness of the block into which the installation is made. A properly installed spike should protrude 1-1.5 mm. If this indicator is less, then there will be little benefit from the spike. If more, then the spikes will wear out more, and even break the rubber around them.
As for the manufacturers of spikes, we can name such companies as Tikka-Nastat, Ugigrip Turvanasta and Scason, whose products are very popular in our latitudes. You should not save money in this matter, it is better to purchase branded products (however, this approach is true not only for spikes).
As for the number of studs, it is important that at least 8 studs be in the contact zone of the tyre with the road at any given time, otherwise they simply will not be useful. It is also considered that their maximum number should not exceed 12, since this will lead to an increase in the wear rate of the tread and an increase in noise when driving. However, some manufacturers do not always adhere to this rule. For example, Nokian has tyres that have 160 studs, while usually their number does not exceed 130.
Studding on the spot, if it was produced by specialists who used high-quality spikes and professional equipment, is not too inferior to the factory one. Much also depends on the correct subsequent operation - the rubber must be "aged" and be run in. The only pity is that studding is sometimes done by people who do not care too much about the quality of their work and often use fake studs. So if you are not sure that everything will be done in the best way for you, then it is better to really play it safe and choose a tyre with factory studding. In this case, you will receive not only higher quality, but also save a lot of time.
Changing tyres in anticipation of the cold season must be made without fail.
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