Caliber
A caliber can be described as the type of movement used in a watch. It is expensive and impractical to design a unique movement for each watch model, so most manufacturers often use the same movement in different watch models, sometimes with significantly different designs. The term "caliber" is due to the fact that initially the type of movement was designated by a number (in inch lines) corresponding to its largest size; however, today unique names or alphanumeric indices that are not directly related to sizes are widely used.
Knowing the name of the caliber on which the watch you are interested in is built, you can, if desired, find more detailed information about the mechanism and determine how its characteristics meet your requirements.
Accuracy
The accuracy of the rate is usually determined by the largest error — the deviation from the reference time, which can occur in a month when the watch is constantly running in normal mode. Accordingly, the smaller the number in this paragraph, the more accurate the clock. In addition, the accuracy of the movement is a kind of status indicator: if the error exceeds the values stated in the characteristics, this may indicate a malfunction in the mechanism.
If the accuracy indicators are the same both in advance and in lag, one number is indicated in the characteristics — for example, 30 sec / month (i.e. +/-30 sec / month); however, many mechanisms have unequal deviations, for example -15/+25 sec/month. Also note that this parameter is relevant only for quartz watches (see “Movement type”): in mechanical models, the accuracy of the rate is noticeably lower, it is measured in seconds not per month, but per day.
Dial colour
Clock face background colour. Indicated for models with pointer or combination dials (see "Dial type"); in purely electronic models, usually, either a grey substrate (for conventional LCDs) or a dark base (for LEDs) is used.
The most popular in modern watches are
black,
white,
silver and
blue dials. However, in addition to this, other shades can be found on the market — in particular,
beige,
yellow,
green,
golden,
brown,
red,
orange,
pink,
grey and
purple. A special case are watches with chameleon glasses (see below).
Some models are available in several colour options, in such cases these options are listed separated by commas — for example, "white, red, silver." If the dial is painted simultaneously in 2 or 3 colours, they are indicated as a combination — for example, "white with red" or "white with yellow and red". And multi-coloured models include models in which more than 3 colours are used for the dial.
Backlight
How to illuminate the clock face.
—
Luminescent coating. A variant used in pointer dials: the hands, and sometimes the scale, are coated with a “phosphorus” coating that glows in the dark. This method of backlighting is inexpensive and can be used even in low-cost models; in addition, it does not require batteries and is suitable even for mechanical watches. On the other hand, coverage is often not as effective as it should be. The fact is that for work it must be “charged” from the sun or another bright light source, and this “charge” is enough for an average of 5-6 hours, and already in the first couple of hours the brightness of the glow drops noticeably.
— Electronic.
Illumination based on LEDs or other miniature light sources. Usually, it does not work constantly, but turns on and off by pressing a special button; the exception is LED dials (see "Dial Type"). The main advantage of electronic backlighting is efficiency: it is guaranteed to be enough to view the image on the dial. In addition, such systems do not depend on external illumination, in contrast to the luminescent coatings described above. On the other hand, the lighting requires a battery to operate; therefore, this type of illumination is found exclusively in quartz watches (see “Mechanism type”).
— Luminescent coating / electronic. Systems that combine both types of illumination described above. This optio
...n is found mainly among models with combined dials: the hands are coated with a luminous coating, and the electronic backlight is intended mainly for displays and additional scales (and also as a backup option for the hands). The combined backlight is very convenient, however, such watches are somewhat more expensive.
— Tritium illumination. Illumination option found on premium pointer dials. Miniature flasks filled with tritium, a radioactive form of hydrogen, are responsible for the illumination in such models; from the inside, the surface of such flasks is covered with a phosphor, which glows under the influence of tritium radiation. Separately, we note that this radiation does not pose a danger to humans: it does not go beyond the bulb, and even inside its intensity is extremely low. Tritium illumination is expensive, but it is extremely convenient from a practical point of view: "flashlights" work constantly, without batteries and regardless of external lighting, and shine significantly brighter than a conventional luminescent coating. However due to the decay of tritium, they gradually lose their brightness, but this happens very slowly: it takes 12 years to reduce by half, and at least 20 years for the backlight to become useless.Glass material
The material of the transparent coating covering the dial.
—
Plastic. Transparent plastic (also known as "plexiglass", also known as "organic glass") is considered the simplest option and is found mainly in models of the initial and middle price range, mainly sports and tourist specialization. This material is lightweight, inexpensive, and also tolerates shocks and falls well: with a strong impact, it will crack rather than break, and plastic fragments are much safer than glass ones. These properties are indispensable for
shockproof watches. On the other hand, plastic is very sensitive to scratches and tends to become cloudy quickly due to scratches; and in general it gets dirty more easily than glass.
—
Mineral. Mineral in this case means ordinary, widespread glass — like the one used in windows. It favorably differs from plastic in high hardness: to scratch such material, you need to make considerable efforts. As a result, mineral glass varieties do not become cloudy and remain transparent for almost the entire life of the watch. Among the shortcomings, brittleness can be noted: upon impact, the glass surface can shatter into fragments. On the other hand, even for ordinary glass, such a blow should be quite strong; in addition, manufacturers often use various design solutions (“dial” recessed into the case, tempered glass, etc.) in order to redu
...ce the risk of such an accident to an absolute minimum. Thanks to all this, mineral glass has become widespread today in all types and price categories of watches.
— Sapphire. Glass made of artificially grown sapphire (transparent corundum — aluminium oxide). The main advantage of this material is the highest scratch resistance: such a surface can only be scratched with a diamond or a material similar in hardness to it. On the other hand, sapphire crystals are not cheap, but they do not withstand shocks well and are relatively unsuitable for "protected" watches. As a result, this material is found mainly in rather expensive models designed for everyday use (although there are exceptions).Waterproof
As the name suggests, this parameter determines the degree of resistance of the watch to moisture. It is traditionally stated as the maximum depth under water at which the watch is able to remain watertight; however, it must be borne in mind that this number is very arbitrary. The fact is that when calculating the maximum immersion depth, only the static pressure of water is taken into account, that is, the pressure at complete immobility; at the same time, any movement creates dynamic pressure, which significantly increases the load on the body. In practice, this means that a mark of, for example, 50 m does not mean that you can dive to a depth of 50 m with a watch.
Modern water protection markings correspond to the following practical possibilities:
—
30 m(same as “Water Resistant” without any numbers). Entry level, drops of water are allowed, but not strong splashes. For example, such a watch can be left on in the rain or when washing, but when showering or washing a car, it should be left in a safe place. Of course, there is no talk of immersion in water.
-
50 m. Minimum water resistance, allowing the watch to be immersed in water. These watches can usually be used for swimming, and in some cases even jumping into the water (but not from towers), but they are not suitable for more serious tasks like surfing, snorkeling or scuba diving. As a rule, buttons are not allowed
...to be used underwater.
- 100 m. This degree of water protection allows not only swimming, but also diving to shallow depths, however, it is still considered insufficient for surfing, jumping from towers and scuba diving.
- 200 m. Watches with such water protection are classified as “divers”; models and can withstand scuba diving to depths of up to 20 m.
- 300 m or more. Professional diving models suitable for diving to significant depths.
Please note that the characteristics described are approximate. Specific indicators of water resistance and the possibility of using the watch with water should be clarified according to the official data of the manufacturer.Thickness
The thickness of the watch case. A fairly obvious parameter; we only note that nowadays it is customary to attribute watches with a thickness of less than 7 mm to
ultra-thin models. This design has both aesthetic and quite practical meaning — a thin watch will be useful for those who wear narrow sleeves with tight-fitting cuffs.
Weight
Total weight of the watch. As a rule, it is indicated taking into account the complete strap/bracelet.
The lightest modern watch weighs
no more than 50 g. The most popular models weigh 50 - 100 g, and weight more than 150 g most often means not only a large, but also a fairly advanced device, usually for sports and tourism purposes.
Both light and heavy weight have their advantages: light watches create minimal inconvenience when worn, while massive watches are subconsciously perceived as a solid and reliable device.