Comparison Yongnuo YN-140 vs Godox Witstro AD360 II

— Ordinary. Classic external flash. Usually, it is installed in the "hot shoe" of the camera. This is a versatile type of flash that is suitable for a variety of shooting applications, from portraits to subjects at long focal lengths.

— For macro photography. Special flashes are designed for use when photographing objects at short distances (macro photography). Such flashes, usually, are made in the form of a ring and are mounted on the front of the lens, which makes it possible to achieve uniform illumination of the subject. The connection is made through the "hot shoe" of the camera. It is worth noting that such flashes are not intended for general shooting due to their low power.

— Combined. Solutions from this category are usually kits that include two types of flashes at the same time — normal and macro. For details on each of these varieties, see the corresponding paragraphs. And the key difference between such a kit and two separate flashes is that both lamps, usually, are connected through one “hot shoe” — most often a regular flash is attached to this connector, and a macro lamp is already connected to it.

— On- camera light can be described as an analogue of a flash, used mainly when shooting video. Hence another popular name for such devices is “video flashes”. However, this name is not entirely correct due to the fact th...at the on-camera light does not work in pulses, but in a constant mode. Simply put, this is a specialized spotlight mounted on the camera.

Flashes of this type use one or more diodes as a light source. Usually, LED-light is significantly inferior to xenon illumination in terms of luminous flux intensity, but at the same time it boasts high energy efficiency and reliability. LED flashes are mainly used as stationary lighting and are found in macro photography ( LED ring flashes) and on- camera.

Camera models that the flash can work with. Note that this parameter is usually indicated in the characteristics very approximately — only camera manufacturers are named, but there is no talk of models as such. Therefore, before purchasing a flash, it makes sense to separately clarify whether it will work normally with your camera — for example, on the manufacturer's website or thematic forums. This is especially true for devices from third-party manufacturers — for such models, the likelihood of problems is somewhat higher than for “native” flash cameras. At the same time, devices from the same company usually have the same requirements for connecting flashes, and therefore this parameter is with a fairly high degree of accuracy allows you to evaluate compatibility.

If the specifications of the flash indicate compatibility with several brands of cameras, this usually means that this model is available in several variations, each of which is designed for a different manufacturer.

It is worth noting that the "non-native" camera and flash may be quite compatible and work fine in most shooting modes. Nevertheless, support for TTL (see below) and a number of other specific functions in this case is usually out of the question, and in general, the reliability and efficiency of this combination is lower than that of a camera with a "native" flash. Therefore, it is better to choose all the same accessories with directly claimed compatibility.

Of t...he compatible cameras currently in use: Canon, Fuji, Leica, Nikon, Olympus, Panasonic, Pentax, Samsung, Sigma, Sony.

The guide number is the main characteristic that describes the power of the light pulse of the flash. It is described as the maximum distance (in metres) at which, at ISO 100 and f/1 lens speed (aperture 1), a flash is able to illuminate an "average" subject sufficiently for a normal exposure; in other words, at what distance from the flash it will be possible to normally shoot the scene at the specified ISO and aperture.

There are formulas by which, knowing the guide number, you can derive the practical shooting distance for each specific value of sensitivity and aperture. The simplest formula used to calculate the distance at ISO 100 is: S=N/f, where S is the distance, N is the guide number, f is the aperture value. For example, for a guide number of 56 and an f/2.8 lens, this distance would be 56/2.8 = 20 m. Increasing or decreasing sensitivity by a factor of 2 would increase or decrease the specified distance by approximately 1.4 times, respectively. If you need to calculate the distance as accurately as possible, you should refer to more detailed formulas that can be found in specialized sources.

Separately, it is worth noting that the leading numbers of flashes, usually, are indicated by manufacturers for specific focal lengths of lenses. This is due to the fact that the shorter the focal length and, accordingly, the wider the viewing angle, the more light is needed to illuminate the scene being shot and the more powerful the flash pulse should b...e (at the same distance). Therefore, when choosing by the guide number, it makes sense to pay attention to the focal length indicated by the manufacturer and select a model with a power reserve — especially since guide numbers are often prescribed for rather “long-range” lenses (with a focal length of about 80-100 mm in equiv. 35 mm).

The time it takes the flash or generator (for studio flashes) to prepare for the next flash. The smaller it is, the better. This parameter is especially important for continuous shooting, when the interval between frames is small: if you often shoot in this mode, you should look for a flash with the shortest possible recycle time. Also note that the characteristics usually indicate the shortest recharge time; in some operating modes, it may be significantly more than stated.

The number of flashes that the flash can fire without recharging the battery or changing batteries (see "Power"). This parameter is very approximate, because. in fact, it strongly depends on a number of factors: pulse duration, use of the display and its backlight (if any, see below), autofocus backlight (see "Features"), etc., and with replaceable batteries — even and on their quality. Often, manufacturers indicate in the characteristics the “perfect”, the maximum possible number of pulses — i.e. with their minimum duration, non-use of additional functions and even the optimal temperature regime for the battery. In reality, this figure may be lower. Nevertheless, the data indicated in the characteristics makes it quite possible to evaluate the battery life of the flash and even compare different models with each other.

The duration of the pulse of light provided by the flash. This indicator can range from thousandths to hundred thousandths of a second; it is usually expressed as a fractional number with a unit in the numerator, such as 1/880 s. The human eye does not notice the difference, but in some shooting modes it can become critical. For example, to capture fast-moving scenes (such as splashing water, the flight of an insect, or the movement of machine parts) you need to choose a flash with the shortest flash duration possible — otherwise the image may be blurry.

The longest pulse duration in modern photoflashes is about 1/800 s; the minimum value can reach 1/30,000 s or even less.

The standard brightness of the on-camera light (see "Type"). Usually, most of these models have the ability to adjust the brightness, so the maximum value is given in the specifications.

When shooting at a short distance, devices that are too bright can “overexpose” the scene, degrading the quality of the shooting (and it can be much more difficult to compensate for excessive brightness in post-processing than the lack of light). So when choosing for this indicator, it is worth proceeding from the specific conditions of use.

The number of light-emitting diodes (LED) provided in the on-camera light system (see "Type").

The abundance of LEDs allows you to achieve good brightness at a relatively low cost of the entire device — there are many light sources themselves, but they are relatively cheap. However, these models can be inconvenient to carry on camera and work in tight spaces. In turn, compact lamps with a small number of LEDs are more convenient, portable and "manoeuvrable", however, they are either inferior to more "multiply charged" models in terms of brightness, or are noticeably more expensive.