How to choose a sewing machine
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1. How a sewing machine works
The sewing machine is designed in such a way that it uses a needle, thread and shuttle to create stitches to join fabrics. All its components work in sync to make the sewing smooth and neat. The main parts of a sewing machine are as follows:
- Needle: pierces the fabric and passes the upper thread down;
- Shuttle: grabs the upper thread, forming a stitch with the lower thread;
- Thread guide: guides the thread to the desired location to create a stitch;
- Presser foot: holds the fabric in place, ensuring even feed;
- Feed dog: moves the fabric under the needle for even sewing;
- Pedal: regulates sewing speed.
2. Types of sewing machines
First of all, you need to decide what kind of sewing machine you need. And this depends on the tasks for which the device is purchased, and even the skill level. So, there are several types of sewing machines:
Electromechanical
Once upon a time, our grandmothers and great-grandmothers used mechanical cars - simple, reliable and durable, which were controlled entirely manually. Today, this is already a rarity, replaced by electromechanical models that combine mechanical components and an electric drive. These are the simplest models from the point of view of modern technology, but reliable and, importantly, inexpensive. The equipment includes an electric motor, which, by pressing the starting pedal, sets the entire mechanism in motion, and the main parameters are still adjusted manually.
As a rule, electromechanical machines do not have a very large search filter of functions and capabilities. Therefore, they are often chosen for simple household use and simple tasks such as clothing repair, sewing in zippers, patchwork sewing and sewing products using simple standard seams.
Computerized
This is the most advanced, multifunctional and perfect type of sewing machine. The main feature is the microprocessor, which provides wide possibilities for sewing - in other words, it is a sewing machine and a computer in one person. Due to this, almost the entire sewing process is automated, including the search filter of stitch parameters, the choice of a suitable foot, thread tension, etc.
Computerized sewing machines automatically adapt to different types of fabrics, offer a huge number of different stitches, including decorative, quilting and specialized, as well as several types of loops. Many of them can embroider. In addition, they allow you to create your own stitches and experiment with types of stitches. Visually, the main difference between computerized sewing machines is the presence of a display and a touch panel, which greatly facilitate control.
Given the advanced capabilities and high precision of sewing control, such machines are not cheap. Therefore, they are often chosen by professionals and craftsmen who want to sew original clothes, create new seams and perform complex tasks.
In addition, there are also specialized types of machines designed for specific processes, not sewing in general:
- Embroidery machines are machines that are used only for embroidering various patterns and images on fabric.
- Sewing and embroidery machines are universal machines that, as the name suggests, can both sew and embroider. They are often based on a computerized sewing machine, but supplemented with embroidery equipment: an embroidery unit, hoops, etc.
- An overlock is a special type of sewing machine designed for overcasting: processing and trimming the edges of a product, sewing parts together. The main difference between overlocks is that they have not one, but several working threads.
- A cover stitch machine is a specialized machine that is responsible for creating a cover stitch (flat elastic) seam. Such devices are used for hemming edges specifically on knitted items. The fact is that this material is elastic, so a regular sewing machine may not be able to handle finishing edges on such fabric.
- A coverlock is a kind of hybrid between an overlock and a coverstitch machine, that is, a universal tool for processing the edges of products.
Thus, there are many types of machines, and it is sometimes very difficult to understand their diversity, especially for inexperienced users. Therefore, for a better understanding, we have compiled a comparison table:
| Machine type | Peculiarities | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Electromechanical sewing | Easy to use, low price, small number of sewing operations | Minor repairs and adjustments to clothing, sewing of simple items |
| Computerized sewing | The presence of a microprocessor, precise control and automation of the sewing process, a huge number of sewing operations, the ability to create new seams | Sewing original clothes, performing the most complex tasks |
| Embroidery | Narrow specialization - only for embroidery | Embroidery of patterns and images on fabric |
| Sewing and embroidery | Versatility | Sewing and embroidery |
| Overlock | The presence of several working threads | Overcasting work |
| Overlock machine | Creating a flat elastic seam | Finishing the edge of knitted fabric |
| Carpetlock | Combining the functions of an overlock and a coverstitch machine | Edge processing |
3. Shuttle type
The shuttle is the part responsible for inserting the lower thread into the seam. In general, this is not the most important, but an important component of the sewing machine, since the convenience of work, the quality of sewing and the suitable types of fabrics depend on it.
Vertical (swinging) shuttle
A classic, invented and used for almost a hundred years. During operation, the shuttle swings left and right, catches/drops the thread and returns to its original position, which ensures a continuous stitch stroke. Such shuttles are mainly found in budget and mid-price models, as they have a low cost price. At the same time, they are durable, easy to repair and suitable for materials of any density. However, there are also disadvantages: the vertical shuttle makes noise and creates vibrations during sewing, and also requires frequent lubrication.
Horizontal (rotary) shuttle
A modern mechanism that is often found in computerized, electronic and more expensive electromechanical sewing machines. Unlike the swinging shuttle, it rotates 360 degrees. Provides quick access to the device, easy threading and full control of the remaining lower thread thanks to the transparent top cover. Such a shuttle easily withstands heavy daily loads, is durable, virtually silent and does not require regular lubrication. The horizontal shuttle is more convenient for universal tasks involving various threads and materials, but permanent work with coarse, dense fabrics can lead to a breakdown of the mechanism.
computerized and electromechanical machines.
Vertical (rotary) shuttle
During operation, it does not swing, but rotates. This is a rather complex mechanism that has many advantages: it is reliable, easily withstands frequent and high loads and long-term continuous operation, does not make as much noise and vibrate as a vertical swing shuttle, and also provides high quality sewing at any speed of the sewing shaft. However, this type of shuttle is not so common and is usually used in industrial machines.
4. Number of operations and types of sutures
Finally, from the design and purpose, we move on to functionality. And first of all, this is the number of sewing operations or types of seams that the device is capable of performing. Depending on the type of machine, this can be from 5-10 basic lines to several hundred. For example, due to the design features, electromechanical machines perform a limited number of operations - often from 10 to 30-40 lines. Computerized models make hundreds of different seams. Although it is not a fact that in practice you will need even half of them.
Thus, the number of necessary sewing operations directly depends on the experience and tasks of the seamstress. Thus, for getting acquainted with sewing and simple home use, 15 - 20 types of stitches will be enough. For professional work, you will need a device with an extended range of seams and specialized functions. And for creative craftsmen who create original products, modern advanced machines are better suited, which not only offer their own seams, but also allow you to create your own.
One way or another, there is a list of basic lines that are necessary for both a beginner and a professional:
- straight stitch is the simplest seam;
- zigzag - necessary for overcasting, sewing in elastic, sewing on appliques;
- elastic seam - for working with knitwear;
- blind - for finishing hems, sleeves and other details that require a seam that is invisible from the outside;
- overlock stitch (or imitation overlock) - for finishing edges.
In addition to stitches, the sewing machine also forms buttonholes. This process can be automatic or semi-automatic. In the first case, the system does everything itself - you only need to specify the required length. In semi-automatic mode, the loop is formed in several stages (2 or 4). Accordingly, it takes more time. But this also affects the price: automated assistants are more expensive, and advanced models can also make not one, but several types of different loops.
5. Settings
Selecting the required stitch is far from the only setting on a sewing machine. To adapt the sewing process to different tasks and types of fabric, we recommend paying attention to the following points:
- Stitch length. This is the basic adjustment parameter in any model, which usually varies from 0 to 5 mm. A certain standard is considered to be a stitch length of 2 - 2.5 mm. Longer stitches (4 - 5 mm) are important for working with decorations, leather, suede and other thick fabrics. Short ones (1 - 2 mm) are for fastenings and thin materials. On electronic and computerized devices, this parameter is adjusted digitally, on electromechanical devices - using levers, wheels, buttons and other elements. Therefore, when buying, we recommend checking how convenient this or that control method is for you.
- Stitch width. Another basic parameter that regulates the width of the zigzag stitch. Most models have a range of 5 to 7 mm, although there are specialized machines with larger values. Wide stitches are necessary for decorative work, edge processing, and elastic materials.
- Foot pressure. This parameter is necessary for working with fabrics of different thickness: lower the foot for processing thin materials (silk, chiffon) and raise it for thick fabrics like denim. Correct adjustment promotes uniform stitching and prevents layers from shifting.
- Thread tension. Adjusting the upper thread tension depends on the fabric and stitch selected and prevents the threads from pulling out and causing ruined seams.
- Sewing speed. Measured in stitches per minute, most machines range from 600 to 800, although there are faster models with a speed of over 1000 stitches per minute. Speed control is important for working with different types of fabric, small details, decorative elements and complex operations (sewing in a zipper, sewing in a collar, etc.). The speed is controlled using the pedal and the slider on the body. In the first case, the speed limiting function will also be useful, even with excessive pressure on the pedal.
- Puncture force. This function regulates the force with which the needle pierces the material, which is especially important when working with different types and multi-layered fabrics. For thick materials, a stronger puncture helps the needle easily pierce the material without creating skipped stitches or getting stuck, for thin materials, a lower puncture force prevents damage to delicate materials, reduces the risk of them wrinkling or tearing.
- Disabling the conveyor. The main (lower) fabric conveyor is a series of parallel toothed bars that evenly advance the fabric during sewing. Disabling it allows you to independently advance the material during specific work or for darning, embroidery, and sewing in buttons.
6. Automation capabilities
There are also additional functions that make sewing much easier and more comfortable.
- Needle threader - threads the needle automatically. This is a particularly useful feature for people with poor eyesight or hand tremors.
- Thread cutter - a built-in thread cutting blade that replaces the need to use regular scissors.
- Sewing without a pedal is the ability to work with the machine without connecting the pedal. This is often implemented using a special button on the body, which starts the sewing process with pre-set stitch and speed parameters. This function is useful for long or, conversely, short-term work, as well as for short people or children who do not reach the pedal. The option is mainly available in computerized models.
- Needle Positioning - Automatically stops the needle in the raised or lowered position, making it easier to turn fabric, secure a seam, and sew when frequently changing stitch types.
- PC connection — the ability to connect the sewing machine to a computer to control settings and download new patterns and stitches. Often a USB cable or card reader is used for this, but there are also models with a wireless Bluetooth connection.
- Creating your own stitches is the ability to create your own non-standard stitches and load them into the device's memory. In most cases, this requires a computer and, accordingly, the on top-mentioned function of connecting the sewing machine to the PC.
7. Useful additions
A sewing machine may also have additional, but not mandatory, equipment and functions that also make the sewing process more convenient:
- Free arm allows you to remove the front part of the work area, leaving only a narrow space for sewing in the round and neat work with narrow parts such as pant legs and sleeves.
- Reverse - movement in the opposite direction, helps to secure the seam.
- Twin needle sewing is the ability to install twin needles on one holder, which provide a parallel seam.
- The upper conveyor(or "walking foot") is supplied in addition to the standard lower conveyor and helps to move the fabric from on top. The presence of such a conveyor is useful for more precise stitching of parts and preservation of the pattern.
- Backlighting is lighting of the work area, allowing you to work in poorly lit rooms. Manufacturers often use LED lamps for this, which do not heat up, are durable and consume a minimum of electricity.
- An additional table is an add-on surface that expands the work area for sewing voluminous items (curtains, bed linen, etc.).
- Ruler - drawn on the body of the sewing machine. Helps to accurately measure and control the distance between stitches and the edge of the fabric, maintain even seams, perform symmetrical stitches, etc. without using separate rulers.
- Display - simplifies the adjustment of parameters and general settings, as it clearly displays all the necessary information. Basically, displays, including touch screens, are found in computerized models. However, there are also electromechanical sewing machines with a small screen capable of displaying the main parameters.
- Autonomous power supply — the ability to power the sewing machine not only from the mains, but also from additional sources (battery or batteries). Autonomous power supply is useful during power outages and for using the device as a mobile option, but is very rare.
8. Equipment
When choosing a sewing machine, you should also remember about the equipment. First of all, pay attention to the availability of different types of presser feet. The basic minimum is a universal foot and a buttonhole foot - they are supplied with almost any model. The first is necessary for straight stitching and zigzag, the second - for buttonholes. But the kit may also include other feet:
- Overlock (for processing edges);
- For sewing in a zipper;
- For blind stitching;
- For sewing on buttons;
- For quilting (multi-layer sewing from patches);
- For decorative stitching;
- For satin stitch;
- For embroidery of monograms;
- For knitwear;
- Rolled hem foot (for processing thin fabrics).
In addition to the paws, the kit may include additional accessories:
- Bobbins;
- Set of needles - for different fabrics;
- Screwdriver and tools - for servicing the machine;
- Cleaning brush;
- Oil - for lubricating moving parts;
- A case or bag - for storage and transportation.
9. Popular manufacturers
Having decided on the search filter criteria, it would be a good idea to inquire who created a particular model. There are well-known brands with extensive experience on the sewing machine market that have earned a good reputation and earned the trust of users. Among them:
10. How to choose a sewing machine based on your needs
To sum it up, you need to choose a sewing machine depending on your needs, taking into account its purpose, functions, scope, complexity of tasks and frequency of use. We hope that our recommendations will help you make the right choice:
- Beginner seamstresses need a simple device, not overloaded with unnecessary functions, with 15-20 sewing operations. An electromechanical model will be suitable for the role of a basic assistant, which will help you quickly master the basics of sewing: simple stitches, creating buttonholes, processing edges, blind seams, etc. The same device will be a good option for regular home use and performing simple tasks: if you need to hem pants, patch holes in bed linen and sew simple things.
- For active home use(sewing and repairing clothes, working with various fabrics), a more multifunctional assistant is needed - for example, an electronic machine with 30 - 40 types of stitches. We recommend choosing devices with a powerful motor and a durable design - they will be universal tools for any task and will serve you for many years. To constantly improve your skills, give preference to models with flexible settings, extended equipment and additional features.
- Advanced users and professionals need a device with advanced functionality, preferably an advanced computerized machine with a wide variety of stitches, including decorative and highly specialized ones, as well as the ability to create your own patterns. Such machines work quickly, are extremely easy to use, encourage experimentation with sewing and easily cope with any fabric, thin or heavy thick.
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