All edges overcast: the right choice of the right overlock

Unlike their great-grandmother, the “needlewomen of our time” are able to surprise with a variety of stitches and seams without much effort, as some of them are fully computerized or have received no less convenient electromechanical control.

It is noteworthy that the functionality of a sewing device is often determined by the possibility of using a variety of sewing feet, and the overlock foot should rightfully be called the most useful.

But, if your sewing plans are not limited to sewing kitchen towels, diapers and primitive wardrobe items, then experienced seamstresses recommend buying a separate edging and trimming machine, called as overlock, the choice and functionality of which we will discuss in this article.

Historical digression

The first overlockers appeared at the beginning of the 19th century.

The pedigree of the overlocker is of American origin and goes back to the beginning of the 19th century: a period of active development of industry, gold rush and trade. Noble businessman Joseph Murrow opens a large-scale garment factory on the site of his own destroyed gunpowder factory and allocates a place on it for his son-inventor Joseph Murrow Jr. as a workshop for the manufacture of sewing machines.

The first seam-overcasting invention was a machine for knitwear, which processed the edges with “hand” stitches, and after a long search, an overcasting machine was finally developed and patented, suitable for all fabrics and called “overlock”.

The main purpose of the overlock

Coverlocks, in contrast to overlockers, have a sleeve console of impressive size and are capable of performing professional stitching work as a sewing machine. Overlock, on the other hand, is relatively more compact, has fewer loops and is used, as a rule, for overcasting prepared fabrics and trimming excess matter.

In any case, even the most low-cost overlock, for example - Singer 14SH654 Price from 10 350 ₴, is able to keep the seams from fraying and create a neat and durable edge.

When choosing, you need to determine your intended scope of work, the main sewing needs and, of course, evaluate the financial aspect.

The most popular overlockers on the market

Variety and modifications of overlockers

The most important factor that distinguishes overlockers from each other is the nature and number of stitches that the stitcher can make in one pass. On sale you can meet two-, three-, four- and five-thread overlockers that can create seams of the same name. As a rule, all these overlocks are based on the same principle of operation: at the location of the bobbin there are built-in loopers that are responsible for capturing and automatically feeding the thread up to organize additional loops.

Based on your needs and sewing skills, you can choose the desired model, but keep in mind that three-thread stitches are considered basic and are presented in all models.

Options and purpose of seams:

Depending on the number of programmed seams, the overlock is able to perform certain functions.

three-thread. The type of seam is the simplest, but nevertheless, due to its reliability and strength, the most used. This kind of seam is also called standard, and even the most primitive models have it in their arsenal;
double thread. Such a seam is indispensable when working with thin fabrics, such as silk or chiffon, it is not as voluminous, but no less durable. However, its implementation is possible only in models where the looper is equipped with a converter;
four-strand. The purpose of this type of seam is to sew parallel parts with overcasting, for example, sewing on the lining and overcasting the edge. To do this, the overlock must have two lower loopers.
five-string. A wide and strong seam, indispensable for sewing heavily flowing materials, such as silk, cambric or chiffon. To obtain it, the overcasting machine must have three loopers. These seams, as a rule, are more often equipped with good coverlocks, for example Juki MO-75E .

Threading

If you are an experienced seamstress, then threading the overlock will not be difficult, but for a beginner, this process can seem like hell, so adapting to threading is a very important point in the process of choosing a device.

A useful element of any overlocker is a vacuum needle threader.

Manufacturers try to help consumers as much as possible, therefore, to facilitate the process, they equip models with special thread guides, and the instructions provide a detailed process diagram using multi-coloured threads as an example.

An equally useful detail will be the needle threader. They are manual and vacuum. The latter will be very convenient for beginners, as they provide instant threading without effort.

The most frustrating part of setting up an overlock for a beginner can be threading the lower looper. This is an inconvenient and time-consuming process, so if you are not a pro yet, choose cars with a special auxiliary mechanism that most modern models are equipped with, for example Juki MO-654 DE , Elna 664 Pro .

Note! Many modern overlock machines are designed only to work with branded threads, and this is not only expensive, but also not always available. That is why, when choosing an overlock, pay attention to its unpretentiousness to consumables, so that later you do not look for the right thread at the wrong time. Overlock machines Brother M 1334D or Elna 664 Pro .

Conveyor: a necessity or an unnecessary option

For those who are familiar with the sewing process firsthand, it is no secret that the overlock stitch of any product can both significantly ennoble it and completely ruin it. As a rule, the main problem that arises is an uneven seam. To avoid excessive “compression” and uneven stitching, give preference to models that have a fabric feed in the arsenal. It will protect the material from excessive compression and stretching.

The function of the differential feed of the fabric, during which the independent work and adjustment of the rear and front conveyors, will become one of the most necessary for an inexperienced seamstress. Popular models from well-known manufacturers are mostly equipped with this option.

We press on the fabric correctly

Even those who are just taking their first steps in the art of sewing know that the pressure of the sewing foot on the fabric is an important factor. It is on this that the quality of the line and the “evenness” of the product largely depend. If you are going to work with different types of fabrics of different weights, then the foot pressure regulator on the fabric is a necessary option. For dense and coarse fabrics, the clamping force can be weakened, for lighter fabrics - on the contrary, and in the case of constant work with knitwear, adjusting the pressure will help to avoid overstretching and displacement of the fabric.

For beginners, it makes sense to consider models where automatic adjustment is already provided, which allows you to independently determine the degree of pressure depending on the type of fabric.

Additional goodies

Depending on the manufacturer and configuration, the overlock may be equipped with additional functions.

In addition to the main criteria described above, when choosing an overlock, it makes sense to pay attention to additional functions and features:

the presence of a flatlock. This function will allow you to carry out a flat seam almost like a sewing machine ;
thread tension. The presence of a thread tension regulator on one axis is a useful and convenient option that is present in almost all modern sewing machines;
the presence of a rolled seam. If your plans include sewing curtains from thin fabrics (tulle) or you are going to replenish your wardrobe with airy chiffon dresses, then a rolled seam will come in handy, as it will allow you to twist the edge of the part in very capricious fabrics in parallel with the overcasting.
line width. When buying an overlock, it is necessary to give preference to models where the stitch width can be adjusted, since the standard indent of 5 mm from the edge, although universal, is not always relevant when processing capricious lining materials, as well as crumbling satin, silk and chiffon;
the presence of a sleeve platform. Such an accessory will greatly simplify the processing of the bottom of trousers and trousers, and will also help in overcasting the sleeves. But, when choosing an overlock with a sleeve platform, you need to take into account that its presence will complicate the process of caring for the sewing device.

Which manufacturers to pay attention to?

The choice of overlock must be made based on your skills and needs.

Among the huge assortment, each manufacturer tries to highlight their products by offering various advertising tricks. Masters of sewing, relying on experience, offer to conditionally divide everything into three price categories, offering models proven by experience and time in each.

Low-cost segment

Here it is worth highlighting manufacturers such as TOYOTA, Aurora and Merrylock. Sewing devices of this class are perfect for home sewing without much stress. Despite the fact that most models are very functional, they are more likely to break down, and the quality of the stitching can be disappointing.

Most affordable overlockers on the market

Prime Technics PO 124 W

from 7 125 ₴

Middle segment

Overlockers from manufacturers such as Janome, Singer, Juki, Elna and Brother are suitable for high-quality work at home, as well as for medium-duty studios. Almost all models of these manufacturers have unpretentious care, reliability, ease of use and decent functionality.

Elite segment

This section includes products from manufacturers such as Bernina and BabyLock.

Sewing machines of professional level and excellent quality are produced under eminent brands. The high price is due to the reliability and durability of the devices, as well as a variety of sewing operations. They perfectly cope with any fabrics, are equipped with additional lighting and an informative display.

Most advanced overlockers on the market

And finally, when choosing a sewing machine, you should not chase the price or brand name. The purchase must be made depending on your needs and skills: if you are an experienced seamstress or the owner of a mini-studio, then you should consider the functionality and “bells and whistles” of the device, but you should not run to buy an expensive carpet lock with a million options for rare home use.