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Comparison REAL-EL STAB SLIM-500 0.5 kVA / 400 W vs Luxeon LDW-500 0.5 kVA / 300 W

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REAL-EL STAB SLIM-500 0.5 kVA / 400 W
Luxeon LDW-500 0.5 kVA / 300 W
REAL-EL STAB SLIM-500 0.5 kVA / 400 WLuxeon LDW-500 0.5 kVA / 300 W
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AVR typerelayrelay
Input voltage230V (1 phase)230V (1 phase)
Power400 W300 W
Power0.5 kVA0.5 kVA
Specs
Input voltage range140 – 260 В140-260 В
Output voltage accuracy (±)8 %8 %
Response time10 ms
Voltmeterdigitaldigital
Sockets
Grounded sockets11
Protection levels
Protection
overheating
high frequency interference
short circuit
overload
over / under voltage
overheating
high frequency interference
short circuit
overload
over / under voltage
General
Installation
wall
floor
wall
Coolingpassivepassive
Dimensions330x160x60 mm195x158x129 mm
Weight2.6 kg2.48 kg
Added to E-Catalogfebruary 2017march 2014
Glossary

Power

The maximum active load power allowed for this model.

Active power is the power that in AC appliances is spent on useful work or on heat generation. In addition to it, such devices also consume reactive power — it goes to the operation of specific components, primarily capacitors and inductors. Apparent power, denoted in volt-amperes (kilovolt-amperes), is the sum of active and reactive, see below about it. Here we note that in simple everyday situations, there is enough data on active power indicated in watts for calculations. In particular, it is this parameter that is considered the key when choosing stabilizers for washing machines and dishwashers : in the first case, power from 2 to 5 kW is considered optimal, in the second — from 1.8 to 2.5 kW.

Anyway, the total active power of the connected load should not exceed the figures indicated in the characteristics of the stabilizer. For a full guarantee, it's ok to take a certain margin, but this margin should not be too large — an increase in the allowable power significantly affects the dimensions, weight and price of the device. Also note that there are formulas that allow you to convert the active power consumption into total power, taking into account the type of connected electrical appliance; these formulas can be found in special sources.

Input voltage range

The voltage range at the input of the stabilizer, at which it is able to operate in normal mode and supply a constant voltage of 230 or 400 V to the load (depending on the number of phases, see above). The wider this range — the more versatile the device, the more serious power surges it can extinguish without going beyond the standard operating parameters. However, note that this parameter is not the only, and not even far from the main indicator of the quality of work: a lot also depends on the accuracy of the output voltage and the response speed (see both points below).

Also note that some models may have several modes of operation (for example, with 230 V, 230 V or 240 V output). In this case, the characteristics indicate the "general" input voltage range, from the smallest minimum to the largest maximum; the actual ranges for each particular mode will vary.

In addition, there are stabilizers that can operate outside the nominal input voltage range: with a slight deviation beyond its limits, the device provides relatively safe output indicators (also with some deviations from the nominal 230 or 400 V), but if the drop or rise becomes critical, it works appropriate protection (see below).

Response time

The rate at which the regulator responds to changes in input voltage. It is determined by the time that passes from the moment of a power surge until the moment when the device fully adjusts to the new parameters and the output current corresponds to the standard 230 or 400 V (depending on the number of phases, see above). Accordingly, the shorter the response time, the better the stabilizer works, the lower the likelihood that a power surge will significantly affect the connected equipment. On the other hand, not all types of electrical appliances are sensitive to speed — for some, smooth adjustment or voltage accuracy is more important (see above); and the high speed itself can significantly affect the price of the device. Therefore, when choosing by this parameter, it makes sense to consider which devices are planned to be connected through the stabilizer.

Installation

Wall mounted. This option includes two installation methods. The first, classic option is hanging with the help of “ears” on screws, studs or other similar devices. Thanks to this, the device does not take up space on the floor, in addition, the owner can choose the installation height; this is especially useful in cramped conditions. The disadvantage of this method, compared with the floor, can be called the need to "hollow the walls" and less suitability for moving from place to place; in addition, it is poorly suited for powerful heavy vehicles. The second type of wall-mounted devices are compact low-power models (usually a voltage relay — see "Device"), plugged into a socket not through a wire, but with a plug on the case itself. In fact, such a device is mounted directly on the outlet and does not require special installation.

— Outdoor. Floor models favorably differ from wall models in simplicity and ease of installation: in fact, apart from a flat surface, nothing else is needed for them. The role of such a surface can be played not only by the floor, but also by a shelf, countertop, etc. (the main thing is that such a design can withstand the weight of the stabilizer), and the installation itself is limited only to moving the stabilizer to the desired point in the room. In addition, the ease of moving from place to place is limited only by the mentioned weight, and it can be almost anything. Thanks to this, among the fl...oor models there are options for any available power and "tricks". The main disadvantage of this method is the need for space under the stabilizer on the floor or other surface.

Note that some models allow both wall and floor installation as standard. Such a device can be useful, for example, if you have not yet decided on a specific option, or if the situation can change at any time. In addition, it is technically possible to put the wall model on the floor, and equip the floor model with mounts and hang it on the wall, but usually such tricks at least do not make sense, or even lead to unpleasant consequences (such as overheating or breakage of the mounts).
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