In our blackout survival guide you will find subject-specific recommendations, obvious and not-so-obvious devices that may be useful, as well as links to other useful articles.

The basis of backup energy supply

Let us immediately make a reservation that during a blackout, residents of the private sector are in a slightly more advantageous situation than residents of high-rise buildings. Yes, there are very advanced residential complexes in terms of energy independence, and in some country houses everything is powered by electricity. But even at these extremes, it is easier to provide backup power in the private sector, thanks to the greater number of available options for implementing autonomy. You can operate generators in your local area in accordance with all safety regulations. There are also much more opportunities for installing solar panels with profile inverters.

We do not recommend using a generator in an apartment building (for example, on a balcony). You will have to use it at your own peril and risk, paying increased attention to safety. If you decide to take this step, then consider only inverter models with a closed casing. While the generator is operating, the windows on the balcony must be constantly open, the level of exhaust gases in the room must be regularly measured, fire safety must be ensured, etc. Yes, and ensuring autonomy in an apartment using solar energy is extremely problematic due to obvious installation restrictions.

In the private sector, both options are highly feasible and can even be used in pairs, for example, to reduce fuel costs (gasoline and diesel). Although, probably, almost the best choice here is a gas generator connected to the main pipe.

If the option of backup power supply using a generator suits you, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following three specialized materials:

For residents of apartment buildings, other options are available in case of prolonged power outages. All of them are also appropriate for the private sector, if for some reason the generator is not satisfactory.

So, the heart of the backup power supply system can be:

Plus, it is extremely important to understand the appropriate types of batteries. For this case, we have a thematic material - “ Common types of rechargeable batteries ”, which indicates the pros and cons of each option.

Don’t know yet what suits you best - a portable station, a UPS or an auto-inverter? Then you should familiarize yourself with the following materials:

By the way, we have specialized articles in the “How to choose” format about these three backup power options (see the table below). They have a lot in common: for example, compatibility with certain devices depends on power, and battery life depends on the built-in or connected battery. But stations, UPSs and auto-inverters also have a lot of different things. For clarity, we have summarized the main facts and differences in a table:

Options Charging station UPS Car inverter
Selection rules How to choose a charging station How to choose a UPS How to choose a car inverter for creating autonomous power systems from a car battery
Comparison criteria
Safety High High + depends on the battery in the pair Lower than competitors + depends on the battery paired
Ease of use Above average Average Low
Current quality High
(in most cases pure sine wave)
Miscellaneous
(there is a UPS with pure sine and a similar sine wave)
Miscellaneous
(more models with modified sine)
Compatibility Limited
(select models support additional batteries and/or solar panels)
Limited
(some models are very universal in terms of compatibility with batteries)
Wide
(can be connected to a car, used with almost any battery)
Charging the battery Eat
(default)
Eat No
(usually requires additional charger)
Additional features Extensive
(UPS function, remote control, etc.)
Extensive
(cold start, quick battery replacement, bypass)
Minimum
Price Above the competition Average The most democratic

Note that it is not necessary to use just one thing; you can successfully combine several solutions, especially if your budget allows. Let’s say it’s reasonable to take an auto-inverter with a small-capacity battery for the boiler, an uninterruptible power supply for a stationary PC, and a charging station for kitchen appliances or something else.

Preparation for a long blackout is not completed only by choosing an alternative energy source. And here, too, there is a fundamental difference from a gasoline or diesel generator: with it, you can replenish the fuel supply for the required number of hours until the light appears. But this will not work with a portable station, UPS or auto-inverter. Built-in or external batteries are a bottleneck - they will run out sooner or later. For this to happen “late”, you need to carefully think through all the details, choose less energy-consuming devices and accessories for work, cooking and storing food, lighting, heating your home, etc.

Next we will tell you in more detail about each point of life support during long-term power outages.

Computer and Internet

To maintain functionality during long blackouts, you need to take care of two main points - PC autonomy and stable Internet.

Laptops are better adapted to blackout. Among modern models there may be truly “long-lasting” solutions that do not discharge for more than 12 hours (although this all depends on the load). Plus, modern interfaces and technologies - USB C and Power Delivery - allow you to extend the autonomy of many laptops today. Such a laptop can be connected to a power bank that supports the protocol of the same name and high output power (preferably from 65 W).


Don't forget that the laptop provides mobility, so you can go with it to a cafe where there is a generator, or to a point of Inviolability. And if you buy a portable solar panel, you can work, for example, even in a park or on the beach.

It will be more difficult for owners of a stationary PC during a blackout. The previously mentioned solutions will help provide backup power - for example, a profile UPS or a charging station with the same function. Such devices provide an instant transition to “backup”: they eliminate the shutdown of the computer and the risk of losing important data.


As for the Internet, the least vulnerable to power outages are the following solutions:

  • GPON technology. It involves the establishment of optical fiber to the direct consumer. Energy independence is ensured by eliminating the usual switches for multi-storey buildings. As soon as the lights go out, they stop working and users are left without the Internet. With GPON technology, which you can read more about in the profile material, the connection is not lost provided that the subscriber terminal and router are independently powered (both devices are located in the house/apartment). The best additions to them can be considered mini-UPS, “tailored” for low-voltage consumers. Alternative solutions are charging stations, standard uninterruptible power supplies, and even power banks with accessories that increase the output voltage.
  • Satellite Internet based on SpaceX Starlink terminals. This is an effective solution for difficult, including field conditions, which has proven itself in practice. Compared to GPON, this technology is more expensive both at the purchase stage and during operation - the subscription fee without benefits exceeds $100 per month. Plus, we must take into account that the quality of communication in basements and on the first floors may leave much to be desired. At the same time, if you provide backup power to the terminal, then the autonomy time can be almost unlimited, whereas even GPON does not have this: central communication nodes operate as long as they can be powered by the provider.

During a long blackout, you can hardly count on stable mobile Internet. The load on it increases, the quality and speed drop significantly. But we won’t categorically recommend giving up a profile 4G modem. Sharing the Internet from a smartphone is not always convenient. The phone will run out of power quickly in this scenario and its battery will wear out faster. You can also purchase special antennas for the modem to strengthen the signal.

As for regular wired Internet with switches in the entrances, it is also quite possible to achieve several hours of autonomy. First, providers are gradually equipping these devices with batteries. Secondly, the residents themselves can cooperate and purchase a special uninterruptible power supply for communal network equipment. In this case, the home router will also need to be powered.

You can read a little more about everyday work in the absence of power in our material “ How to organize remote work during power outages.”

Cooking

Problems with cooking due to blackout occur among residents of private houses and high-rise buildings that are not gasified and do not have gas stoves or hobs. And the longer the shutdown, the more difficulties and inconveniences arise.

A saving solution for owners of electric stoves can be tourist burners, which in most cases work in tandem with collet cylinders. These are quite affordable devices, which, among other things, allow you not to waste a backup energy source (batteries of a UPS, auto-inverter, charging station) on high-power kitchen electrical appliances, including the same kettle.

If a small burner is better for camping, then for stationary use - a stable mini-stove

In extreme cases (for example, the supply of cylinders has run out or you urgently need to feed a small child), you can use a multicooker or microwave. They consume on average from 700 to 900 W, which is quite a lot in difficult blackout conditions, but less critical than, say, an electric kettle or a tabletop stove with one burner. Plus, don’t forget, controlled shutdowns are caused by energy shortages, which means that when the light is finally turned on, immediately turning on the oven and all heating zones of the hob is not a very correct approach.

Food storage

The second important point in the kitchen during long blackouts is the protection of perishable food. Here the main focus should be on the refrigerator.

The minimum task is to prolong the preservation of the cold. To do this you need:

  • do not open the refrigerator compartment again (and if possible, it is better not to use the freezer compartment at all);
  • be sure to think about what products you need to take, quickly remove them, and immediately close the door;
  • purchase cold storage batteries : they extend battery life. You can also make them yourself - their role will be played by frozen plastic bottles - simply with water or a saline (or gel) solution. In order to better maintain low temperatures when the lights are turned off, the freezer should be loaded as densely as possible (including cold storage batteries). But in the refrigerator compartment, the batteries should be laid out evenly on different shelves;
  • check the condition of the rubber seals on the door, if necessary, call a technician;

The maximum task is to provide backup power to the refrigerator. This is true if there is no electricity for 8 hours or more in a row (and for hot summers for 6 hours or more).

Important! The refrigerator compressor requires high-quality current with a pure sine wave. Plus, conventional (non-inverter) units have high starting currents, so they require a backup power source with a rated power of 1000 - 1500 W to start directly. And after launch, their average consumption decreases by at least 5–8 times.

As a very responsible preparation for a blackout, you might want to consider replacing your rather ancient (and not very energy efficient) refrigerator. Modern models can cope with their tasks perfectly without high starting currents and with generally low power consumption.

Points that you should definitely pay attention to if you are thinking of buying a refrigerator right now:

  • for the presence of an inverter compressor. It not only increases reliability, reduces noise and energy consumption, but also does not require high inrush currents. This means that the refrigerator will start even when connected to a UPS, auto-inverter or charging station of moderate power;
  • on energy efficiency indicators. Models of class D (new) and higher can be considered economical. And if there are not so many devices rated B or A yet, then the choice among C (new) refrigerators is quite large. Their electricity consumption averages less than 0.5 kWh per day;
  • for battery life. The period of maintaining cold is relevant specifically for blackouts. For some models, this indicator does not exceed 10 hours, but there are devices in which food will not defrost even within a day.

Applicable to both old and new refrigerators, do not forget that they are sensitive to power surges. Therefore, it is recommended to use them with special stabilizers or protective relays - both in a socket and on a DIN rail. They will help with short-term surges and can protect home appliances from breakdowns.

In the most difficult situations - even if the charging station has already been discharged, but there is still no electricity - you need to think about how to cope without a refrigerator. In winter, an open balcony or loggia can be a salvation, and in extreme cases, perishable foods can be placed at low tide, that is, outside the window opening. At other times of the year, an alternative to a refrigeration unit can be thermal bags, and for car owners - car refrigerators.

In case of long power outages, it would be a good idea to have stocks of non-perishable foods with a long shelf life - instant cereals, nuts, dried fruits, canned food, snacks, etc. Plus, don’t forget that public catering has prepared well enough for the risks of a blackout, which means you can eat and drink hot food without any problems in the cafes closest to your home.

Heating

In a private house, the variability of home heating is significantly higher. For example, here you can use a solid fuel boiler and warm yourself in the winter “classically” - with ordinary firewood. In apartment buildings, a lot depends on the preparation for a blackout of the utility companies serving them or the efforts of the condominium association (Association of Co-Owners of an Apartment Building).

But even for residents of high-rise buildings there are non-obvious devices that can at least temporarily replace central heating:

  • Autonomous diesel heaters (Webasto). Initially, these were solutions for heating cars and safely starting the engine in winter, but thanks to targeted modifications (closed exhaust chamber, effective removal of combustion products, muffler), such devices “migrated” to indoors. The heating itself is provided by diesel fuel, and for the operation of auxiliary systems (electronics, ventilation, etc.) both alternating (portable station) and direct current (12 V battery) are suitable.
  • Gas heaters (convectors). These are devices that use gas, including from cylinders, to release thermal energy. They are often found on construction sites, but there are models suitable for indoor use, including offices, shops, etc. A prerequisite for operation is the presence of effective ventilation.
Some manufacturers of gas heaters declare their home use
Important! From a safety point of view, both types of heaters have restrictions and even prohibitions for certain conditions of use. Therefore, we cannot recommend them for purchase without prior consultation with specialists.

Also keep in mind that diesel and gas heaters are only an addition to centralized heating systems, and not self-sufficient solutions.

More conventional electrical appliances can also be considered as heating insurance. But from the standpoint of not the most convincing energy efficiency, it is hardly worth using convectors or oil radiators. It’s a completely different matter - inverter air conditioners are ready to work for heating in severe frosts, including heat pumps, for which -25°C is not a problem. Thus, models of 9000 BTU, that is, for an area of 25 m², in winter operation will consume approximately 600 W, providing about 3000 W of thermal energy.


Plus, in the most difficult circumstances (conditionally, if there is no light and heat for 12 hours and it is not clear when they will appear), it would be reasonable to abandon the idea of creating a comfortable microclimate in one of the rooms in favor of insulating only the household members themselves. The base here is layered clothing, and an advanced option is to use a sleeping bag for the winter or an electric sheet powered by a charging station.

In conclusion, we note that in winter, not only heating (heaters and heating), but also high-quality thermal insulation of the home plays an important role. To do this you can:

  • conduct a heat audit to identify the main heat losses;
  • carry out preventative maintenance on window structures - replace the rubber seals, check the fittings for a tight fit of the sashes;
  • replace the entire glazing or just double-glazed windows - replace the usual ones with energy-saving ones;
  • order external insulation of the facade, etc.

Lighting

If power outages coincide with short daylight hours, then the lack of lighting at home not only significantly reduces the level of comfort and coziness, but also negatively affects the people’s psyche. Mood and performance decrease, and it has been scientifically proven that the risk of depression increases. At the same time, implementing autonomous lighting using modern LED technologies is much easier than, say, heating or even cooking without a gas stove.

Here are just some of the main options (besides the smartphone flashlight):

Even one such autonomous lighting device will add convenience in the evening. Many of the solutions listed can complement each other. Let's say a light bulb with a regular base is useful in a bedside floor lamp or a chandelier above the dining table, a ring lamp will help you apply makeup before going to work early, and a camping lantern will illuminate the work area of the tabletop when preparing dinner.

What to do when the station or battery is discharged?

Even the longest lasting battery backup power source will eventually run out. And if the light never appears, what should you do? Here are some solutions:

  • Use solar panels. For the private sector, the best option would be stationary structures on the roof or local area. For residents of high-rise buildings, portable panels are more suitable, although with the consent of neighbors, condominiums can create their own solar mini-power station. It should be borne in mind that this method is dependent on weather conditions. Thus, from the end of spring to the second half of autumn, solar energy can provide not only fast charging of a portable station or batteries, but also some energy independence from local power grids. In the cold season, as well as in cloudy (and especially rainy) weather, everything will not be so fast and rosy.
  • If you don’t want to buy a powerful generator, you can buy a model up to 2 kW, or even up to 1 kW. It is advisable to consider a device that is not too heavy and relatively quiet with a sound insulation casing, but even this should be used outdoors from a safety perspective. Using such a generator, you can charge a portable station or other backup power system. Let's say that in EcoFlow models the battery capacity is replenished in approximately 90 minutes. And if the station is compatible with a solar panel (and you also have them), then charging will be even faster.
  • Buy an auto-inverter and use it together with the car to replenish the capacity of existing batteries and/or charging stations. This option is suitable for motorists, and the “inverter + auto” combination actually replaces the generator, which allows the implementation of the scenario described above.
  • Visiting non-breaking points or other facilities where electricity is not turned off and/or generators are used.
A relatively small generator with a handle is enough to replenish the charge of a portable station or external batteries

Please note that the process of weekend (on-site) charging will not be easy (in the literal sense of the word), because both the portable station and high-capacity external batteries are really heavy in weight. So, if you just need to extend the battery life of your laptop or charge your smartphone, then it’s better to take these mobile devices and go to a cafe. But if the safety of food in the refrigerator or heating of a cooling room is at stake, then a “foray” outside with a charging station and/or batteries looks like a completely justified step.

Conclusions and additional tips

As part of advanced blackout preparation, common sense and safety should be at the forefront. And only after them you can think about the convenience factor.

So, there is a simple method of connecting the charging station to the network using a “plug + plug” wire (aka “suicide cable”). This is an opportunity to power the entire apartment without extension cords and unnecessary movements of the device, but we do not recommend using it without an ATS unit (automatic transfer switch). So, without an ATS, if you one day forget to turn off the input machine in front of the meter, then when the lights are turned on, the charging station will burn out. Yes, and a wire with two plugs does not exclude electric shock due to negligence.

In general, regarding safety, we recommend adhering to the following rules:

  • carefully read the instructions and rules for using the charging station, UPS or auto-inverter and batteries for them;
  • consult an electrician if you want to integrate the station into your home network or have other questions to which professionals know the correct answer;
  • buy a voltage stabilizer or relay. These devices will reduce the load on home appliances when turning on the lights after pauses of varying lengths. Even budget models effectively raise the voltage, which is a good help for sensitive equipment with motors, compressors, etc.;
  • purchase a fire extinguisher when using car batteries indoors (especially lead-acid models);
  • do not chase cheap solutions from NoName brands. It is better to choose equipment and accessories for a backup power supply system from trusted companies, because they, as a rule, have proven themselves well in practice, are truly more reliable, are equipped with clear instructions, and their declared characteristics do not differ from real ones.

Speaking of common sense, the basic advice is very simple - you need to think and prioritize the devices that are truly necessary during a blackout. Those who do not know which devices are powerful and which are not should figure out this issue themselves and convey the information to loved ones (including the elderly, women, teenagers and children).

For most, the most necessary things are a refrigerator and equipment for remote work, and sometimes a gas boiler. Next comes lighting and everything else. At the same time, in the absence of light for a long time, even a device that consumes over 500 W per hour is a luxury, which means its use should actually be justified.

There are a number of devices that definitely should not be backed up during a blackout (primarily due to high power, and also the lack of status as the most important for life):

  • hair dryers;
  • irons;
  • vacuum cleaners;
  • ovens;
  • traditional electric heaters;
  • boilers;
  • coffee machines;
  • dishwashers;
  • drying machines.

You need to weigh the pros and cons several times for:

  • any kitchen appliances;
  • washing machine;
  • entertainment gadgets - TV, set-top boxes, audio systems, etc.

In theory, devices from both the first and second groups can be safely powered during outages, if they occur in strict compliance with the schedule: you know that at such and such an hour the light will appear and you will be able to charge power banks, batteries, etc. And when you and your family think, set priorities and calculate everything, then even with severe restrictions on electricity, you will be able to feel comfort and coziness in your home.